Northern lights over snowy coastal peaks reflected in calm water

Bird Cliffs After Iceland: Westfjords, Puffins and the Next Coast

Erika Sand

Erika Sand

•9 min read

Iceland's bird cliffs do not ask you to be an expert. They ask you to pick a coast, a month, and a pace that leaves room to stand still. Puffins, kittiwakes and the odd gannet are the obvious draw. The useful skill is knowing which cliff is a short stop and which one is the reason you rented the car.

Most visitors meet seabirds by accident, on a south-coast pull-off or a boat that was booked for whales. That is a fine first look. It is a poor plan if the cliffs are what you actually came for. A cliff colony has weather, a path, and a season. Treat it like a hike with feathers, not like a viewpoint you can squeeze in after lunch.

Start with the month, not the poster

Puffins are the bird people name first, and they are also the bird that leaves. On the mainland colonies the busy weeks sit in late spring and summer, when birds are on land with burrows and chicks. By late August many have gone back to sea. A September photo of an empty grassy lip is not a failed trip. It is a calendar you did not read.

Winter cliffs are still alive. Fulmars, gulls and the shape of the rock do not migrate just because the puffins did. If your dates are dark and windy, change the promise you make to yourself. Watch the sea, walk a short rim in daylight, and save the burrow season for a ticket you can actually keep.

Wind matters more than sunshine. A calm grey day on the lip of a cliff beats a bright day when the gusts push you back to the car. Check the forecast for the headland, not for the town twenty kilometres inland.

Where the south coast fits

The south coast is the easy classroom. Waterfalls, black sand and a glacier lagoon already pull the car east from Reykjavík, and several of those stops share the road with bird cliffs and offshore stacks. You are not adding a new holiday. You are adding twenty unhurried minutes at the right pull-off.

Our south coast itinerary is the practical frame: what is worth the brake, and what is only a photograph from the window. Use it, then give one headland a longer stop than the list suggests. Colonies reward standing still. A five-minute glance mostly shows you other people's jackets.

If the whole south day is already full, do not bolt a cliff onto the end. Tired drivers and unfenced edges are a bad pair. Cut a waterfall repeat instead. You can see Skógafoss in a picture later. You cannot rewind a rushed rim path.

A westfjords shape, not a checklist

An iceland westfjords itinerary is the version of this trip for people who want the cliffs to lead. The Westfjords are slower roads, longer fjords, and Látrabjarg at the far western edge, a sea cliff tall enough that the birds are the scale, not a garnish. It is not a reykjavik day trip. Pretending otherwise is how people arrive in the dark and call the place disappointing.

Give the Westfjords at least two nights if the cliff is the point, and three if you also want a weather spare. The drive from Reykjavík is a day in itself. A same-day dash turns the best bird cliff in the country into a windscreen view and a story about being late for the hotel.

Build the days around daylight and fuel, not around a stack of "musts". One long headland, one fjord village, one indoor plan if the wind shuts the path. That is a full westfjords shape. A fourth highlight is how the spare day disappears.

Boats, whales and the city

The best whale watching reykjavik departures are a different kind of wildlife hour: a harbour, a skipper, and a sea that may show nothing. They belong beside cliffs, not instead of them. A boat teaches you the water the birds are fishing. A cliff teaches you where they come ashore. Doing both in one holiday is reasonable. Doing both in one afternoon is not.

The best iceland day tours from reykjavik will sell you a golden circle, a lagoon, or a whale boat with a boxed lunch. Read the hours on the rim, not the adjective in the title. If the tour spends ten minutes at a colony and forty in a gift shop, it is a transport product. Pay for it only if transport was the problem you had.

A reykjavik day trip still has a job. It is the gentle first look: a short coast, a lighthouse, a beach where Arctic terns may object to your hat. Use the city day to learn the weather and your own pace. Use the Westfjords, or a proper south-coast night, when you want the cliff itself.

How to stand on a colony

Stay on the path and on the seaward side of any rope even when the rope looks optional. Burrows collapse under boots. A puffin that flushes from a hole may not return while you are still posing. The photograph is worse, and the bird has paid for it.

Binoculars beat a long lens you do not know how to hold in wind. You will see more by sitting for ten minutes than by walking the whole rim at a march. Chicks, fish in beaks, and the traffic between sea and grass all happen on a loop. The loop is the sight.

When Iceland is the first chapter

A lot of travellers finish Iceland and feel they have "done" the North Atlantic. They have done one country's version of it. The next coast, if you want more cliffs and fewer tour desks, is often Norway: Runde, the islands off Helgeland, or Bleik near Andøya, where puffins use a different rock and a different kind of path.

Feltornitologene is the Norwegian field guide for that second chapter, and its note on andenes whale watching sits beside the bird cliffs rather than instead of them. The same coast that holds a whale boat also holds a puffin mountain. Reading both before you book the ferry saves a day of guessing.

For the bird side in more detail, the puffin colonies at Runde and Bleik are the pages to open after Látrabjarg, not before you have walked an Icelandic rim. You will recognise the season, the wind, and the reason to stay on the path. The rock will look new.

A small packing list that matters

Take a windproof layer even in July, and a hat that will not leave your head. Take binoculars if you own them. Leave the drone in the bag. Colonies and drones are a miserable mix, and in many places the rules have already said so.

Food and water belong in the car or on your back, not in a shop you hope is open at the trailhead. Westfjord villages keep human hours, not itinerary hours. A thermos and a bread roll are not romance. They are how you wait out a squall without abandoning the place.

Snæfellsnes as the middle option

Not everyone has three spare days for the Westfjords. Snæfellsnes is the peninsula that gives you sea, a short list of walks, and a chance of birds without the far-west commitment. It is still not a cliff on the scale of Látrabjarg. It is an honest middle.

The Snæfellsnes guide lays out the loop from Reykjavík as a day or a night. If you stay the night, give the morning to the shore and the afternoon to the drive home. If you do not stay, choose one beach and leave the "full loop" boast for a later trip.

Pair it with what you already know from puffin weeks. Our notes on where and when to spot puffins in Iceland are the calendar; this piece is the decision about distance. Read the calendar first if your dates are even slightly late in the summer. Geography cannot conjure a bird that has already left for the sea.

What to tell yourself on the drive

If the weather closes the rim, the trip has not failed. Sit in the village, look at the water, and keep the next morning free. Cliffs are a conversation with a forecast. People who win that conversation are the ones who booked a spare night and meant it.

Leave the place as you found the path. The burrows were there before the car park, and they will outlast the itinerary you posted. That is the whole ethic, and it fits in a pocket: stay back, stay longer, and let the next coast be a choice instead of a sequel you booked in a hurry.

Erika Sand

Written by

Erika Sand

Erika has spent the last decade driving, hiking, and hot-spring-hopping across Iceland in every season. She writes NRF.is’s itineraries, guides, and trip reports to help travelers see the country safely, affordably, and without the tourist-trap detours.

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